XX. Brown Brothers 1996 Nebbiolo King Valley - Victoria $18 Tar, plums, forest floor and a grippy, grippy finish. A slice of northern Italy that screams for a slice of good parmesan - not to be approached without food. X. Brown Brothers 1997 Noble Riesling Milawa - Victoria $22 Big, full, sweet, luscious apricot. Rich sexy and a top substitute for massage oil. X. Glenara Wines 1999 Sauvignon Blanc Adelaide Hills - South Australia $17 Pale straw with green tinges. The nose is citrussy, ripe and a touch herbal; the palate is lean, clean and fresh. Young and innocent, like Anna Kournikova, just needs a few footy seasons. X. Goundrey 1998 Riesling Reserve Mt Barker - Western Australia $20 Like a sunny breakfast table; toasty, lime and floral characters. Classic Aussie riesling with a couple of years under its belt. X. Goundrey 1999 Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc Classic White Mt Barker - Western Australia $16 Top blend of the two varieties with a seamless combo of grass and passionfruit. Like the perfect TV host - Don Lane moving between guests without a hitch. Seamless and entertaining to boot. X. Mount Langhi Ghiran 2000 Riesling McLaren Vale - South Australia $20 This is breakfast time with those mutant Muppets the Teletubbies - young, fresh and floral with a hint of lime, toast and honey. XX. Pokolbin Estate 2000 Semillon Hunter Valley - New South Wales $23 Light fruity nose of white pear and apple with a zesty and fresh palate. This wine's a bitch - young, sexy and perfectly proportioned. X. Yarra Ridge 1999 Pinot Noir Mt Tanglefoot Yarra Valley - Victoria $16 Warm, sweet, slightly charred nose paves the way for an attractive palate of strawberries, plums and treacle. Little orphan Annie gives daddy Warbucks a big hug.