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great southern land
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EATING AND DRINKING

Food down here is as varied as the region itself. Laminated pizza joints stand by bakeries that rub against fine restaurants and are close to health food shops. Needless to say, there's food and drink for the lot of you.

For those after a cleansing ale with their meal (or those who take the steak in every glass option) Albany's Earl of Spencer is without doubt the watering hole you're after. An historical English pub offering all the right beers, views to the ocean, a beer garden and a menu which includes their famous pie and pint for less than ten bucks. The Esplanade Hotel is a way newer establishment parked on the main strip overlooking Middleton Beach. It serves pub meals, cold beer and dishes up views you can dissolve right into. And it's so close to the water you could almost pull your own beer from the beach.

The Naked Bean is a café and fresh coffee roasters built into a slick, contemporary fit out right in Albany. It serves up a simple, fresh, breakfast and lunch menu for around ten schmackers and makes great coffee from the beans they import, roast and blend themselves. Leonardo's, set in the historical Stirling Terrace in Albany, is a restaurant of the white linen table cloth variety. Smart food, top local wines and as it's run and owned by a husband and wife team, you know you're gonna get service with a smile.

In Denmark, try the Observatory at Karri Mia Resort for views and strange but appealing menu options like soup teamed with cheese and vegemite toasted sandwiches and Matilda's Meadow for fresh, hearty meals on the balcony with the vineyard at arm's length. The best meal we had on the trip down south was a freshly barbecued seafood platter at Bellini's in Denmark. But right after telling us wonderful stories about the Greek Isle she grew up on, the host told us she was leaving the following Monday after spending years in the town. All we can hope is that the new owners maintain the same standard. If so, go here.

ACCOMMODATION

Accommodation in the Great Southern region is like everything else, diverse. There's plenty of self-contained resort-style places that allow you your independence while still having all the mod cons ready when you need them. Karri Mia in Denmark is a well run resort that has comfortable self contained bungalows with views across the valley and to the ocean. It also has the convenience of the Observatory restaurant on the property as well as plans for a heated swimming pool. On the same property, but run as a separate business, is Chimes - a swankier version of the self contained accommodation with a gourmet breakfast, a reading room and an open fire for soothing winter comfort. Balneaire Seaside Resort at Middleton Beach offers the same luxuries in two or three bedroom apartments a mere stumble from the main street. For those who think of B&B and getaway as the same thing, you could retire down here as there are loads of the things (also good reason to do your research before you book). The Sleeping Lady B&B, set at the base of the Porongurup Ranges and named after the formation in the Stirling Ranges that looks like a sleeping lady, is one of the most peaceful places I've visited since I was last asleep. There's also a string of backpacker accommodation in Denmark and Albany for those after the comfortable but communal sleep over.

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