Address letters to: wine.bitch@winexmagazine.com

Wine X:

As a (apparently) rare American (from Texas) on your pages, I'm happy to see that there is a general consensus among younger humans that wine has outlived the snobbery of days long past. I enjoy heartily the fragrant billows of smoke from all but the cheapest of cigars, and coupled with a Spanish, or hell, ANY decent full-bodied red, I can quite contentedly draw deeply from both sources of happiness. That was too much, right? Hey, I like wine. Glad to see everybody else does too! Cheers.

Dave

Dear Wine X:

I thought that it was only the British who complain about wine mark-ups in restaurants. How refreshing!

The simple fact has been raised on these pages by a few people who actually know about the business. Restaurants are often opened by people, just like many of the scribes here, who just fancy the idea. It's a business but it's not a real one. Buy a piece of beef for £3 or $3 and sell it for £12 or $12. £9 or $9 profit right? Wrong. Same goes for wine, beer, spirits or anything else.

Restaurants sell food and booze. Simple. That's it. The money they take on everything the sell has costs subtracted from it. Apart from taxes, they include staffing (the biggest one), rent and rates (huge on Fifth Ave in NYC, probably a good deal less in Roanoake - excuse spelling - Virginia), fitting out a decent kitchen, bar, tables, chairs, crockery and glasses (which break), carpets, ice buckets, logos, stationery, telephone charges, electricity and gas, flowers, insurance, shall I go on?

Anyone who doesn't yet understand needs just one bit of advice. Give up your job. Make your family give up their jobs too. Use your home as a restaurant. Advertise (cheaply if you can!) to get people to come and FILL UP YOUR TABLE(S) EVERY LUNCH AND DINNER TIME (unlikely), Go to your local supermarket (trust me the prices are very similar to wholesale) and buy a load of meat, fish and vegetables just in case you get a lot of people who want to taste different things. Throw a good quantity of your purchases away (because everyone wanted beef that night but none of that delcisious fish you bought) and serve the food and wine at a double mark-up (ie: multiply the cost of everything by 2). Now, has that paid for you and your family to have given up their jobs, and does it pay for your living costs, holidays, car, etc etc.

I don't think so.

If the mark-ups on wine weren't made, they'd be on food. Would you be happy paying $25 for a $4 steak?

If you were tee-total maybe the argument wouldn't work. If you are then you haven't got a problem.

Drink at home or stop bitching about a perfectly straighforward business proposition: however distasteful it might be.

One other thing: if you're paying those mark-ups you have a right to expect that a restaurateur has done something towards making the list enticing and exciting. If they haven't - just don't go. Find somewhere that does. There is really no excuse for bad wine being served today, no matter how cheap the "House" wine is.

To restaurateurs: usae a sensible scale. Don't automatically charge $10 for a $2 wine and $100 for a $20 wine. By all means charge the $10 for the $2 wine if it's fabulous stuff but if you can't find fabulous for $2 but can for $4, then charge $14 and forget the crap stuff. Also, just charge $50 for the $20 stuff. Encourage people to up-buy because they know that as they spend more they get a better percentage deal - then you make more money and no one feels that they're being ripped off.

Except the people who'd never rise to the challenge of running a business.

Nick Tarayan
London

Editor's Reply: When buying food in a restaurant, you're paying for the chef's "expertise" in making it flavorful. Sure, we could cook a $4 steak, but it'd never taste as good (hopefully) as a steak in the hands of a gifted chef selling in a restaurant for $20. However, when a restaurant serves a bottle of wine, they've already paid for the winemaker's "expertise." Unlike the raw steak, nothing they do makes the wine taste better. All they do is open it. That's our bitch against high mark-ups.

RE: Mosh Pit Editorial

Very pointed editorial regarding wine advertising missing the market. I was immediately reminded of a very effective marketing and brand building campaign that was deployed in South Africa in the 1980's.

During this time the country was facing international economic isolation that resulted in a "wine lake" on the local market. There wasn't much of a problem persuading people to drink (at almost any age) but for some wine producers, they had to be drinking wine instead of beer or spirits. A product called Graca (grah sah) was launched, a slightly off dry white wine that was presented as though it had originated from the fun filled island of Santorini in Greece. The shape of the bottle was also distinctive - shorter and fatter than a regular wine bottle. Young people were portrayed drinking the wine, mostly during the day, while picnicing next to a ski boat on the side of a lake. Beach barbeque's were also shown as well as cricket matches and other fun outdoor events (mostly related to summer social activities). The campaign was tremendously successful and Graca rapidly became a very popular brand. The product was completely varietal and appelation neutral (i.e there was nothing on the label to indicate that it was anything other than white table wine). Advertisements appeared on TV, billboards and in sporting magazines (among other places). It did help that there was a well established Greek community in the country and that most potential consumers would know where Santorini is. The product was pushed heavily through the many Greek restaurants that existed at the time as well.

I am sure that I could find out more about this if anyone is interested.

Glad to see that there are some efforts afoot to rub the edges off the wine industry and point it in the direction of consumers.

Regards,

Robin.

You guys fucking rock. I have to admit I was a bit annoyed when your press was down. Stuck happens. But I have to say, Salute! And thank you for an innovative, non-pretentious mag. Caio.

Rob

Wine Bitch,

After a very wine knowledgeable friend of mine asked me what I thought about screw caps vs. corks, a subject that really had not been on my front burner, I started thinking and reading about real cork, fake cork and various kinds of screw caps. It looks to me like there is a lot of misinformation, snobbishness and ignorance about this whole thing. I'm no expert by any means, but when you really think about it why not use screw caps, even for good reds that you want to keep for a long time? What is all the talk about wine needing to breathe? Look at ports that last forever with their wax seals, and good cabs, e.g. Dunn with wax seals. Do they "breathe"? No. Does wine really need to breathe? What if you did not have to worry about ullage in your maturing wines? It's my understanding that loss of sulfur dioxide (SO2) through a cork causes a loss of freshness and aids in contributing to browning and oxidation. If gas can get out, oxygen can get in. We don't seem to mind that a cork will let air into the wine when we cellar it, but heaven forbid that this same wine is exposed to O2 if we want to save some the next day. Enter VacuVins and nitrogen systems. Natural cork can taint a wine (corking), and I understand this may occur in as many as one of every 20 bottles. How would like to cellar a Latour for 20 years only to find on opening that it is corked. That has happened to me. Then there is that great old bottle that you open on a special occasion; everyone gathers around to witness this special event only to find that the cork crumbles as you use your fancy, expensive cork screw, and it spews bits and pieces into the wine, or worse yet, you can't get it out and have to push the cork into the bottle. I have been there also.

So it seems to me that from a consumer's viewpoint we might be better off if all wine bottles had screw caps, oops, stelvins! They must be cheaper than corks, capsules and those little wax buttons. That's assuming our friendly producers pass the savings along to us. Think of all the money we could save in cork screws, cork retrievers, vacuum gadgets and on and on.

I am interested in and invite comments, criticisms, raspberries or whatever.

3arch@....

Hi,

Is there a UK/Ireland/Europe edition of WineX magazine? I've had the joys of the NZ/Australia version and am gagging for more!

Regards

Ann Dillane

Editor's Reply: We plan to launch a UK edition in December 2001.

I had to smile when I noticed this review in your latest issue:

"XX Silver Oak
1996 Cabernet Sauvignon
Alexander Valley $50
Domenica Cameron-Scorsese in a leather body suit -- smooth, rich and very sexy. Close to XXX."

Although I agree with your characterization, I hasten to point out that Domenica Cameron-Scorsese is a noted teetotaler and -- perhaps ironically -- won't touch a glass of alcohol with a ten foot pole!

Keep up the good work.

James Kerwin

Bloody Hell and Bravo!

The seminar printed in the mosh pit made me want to stand in the middle of this small, stuffy $3/hr internet centre and give a round of applause.

I'm 22 years old and have been passionate about wine since the age of 18. I'm now studying to be a winemaker, but as I age the shiny excitement of my teens has worn a little thin. The amount of snobbery that surrounds this industry is ridiculous, the number of times I've been brushed off by wine shop attendents and fancy sommeliers...

I've purchased and read your magazine from front to cover since the very first issue and know of many people in my age group who are also fans.

Keep up the good work.

Amber Martin
NSW

Dear Wine X,

Love love love your mail and tips. Keep it coming...with a wine chaser.

A Samsel

Dear Wine X,

Just wanted to let you know how much I like your magazine. I bought my first issue at Barnes & Noble in December, the Holiday Issue. Is the original idea person behind the mag a person from the 60's generation? I love the style and format. From my first copy I think you have one of the best! I was pleasantly surprised to find out that the Executive Producer (Jason Priestley) is the Jason Priestley! I wish that I would've put money on that bet! Oh well.

Karen Mekesa

Dear Wine X,

Don't wineries understand the fact that, like Opera, they're at risk of losing their audience because they aren't cultivating or educating people about wine? It has such a snob factor that you'd think they'd see how important this is.

Melisa

Dear Wine X,

I'm a young wine drinker and I want to thank you for this incredible publication! I'm actively pursuing my career in the wine industry and I think this magazine is fabulous! Keep up the great work!

Holly

Dear Wine X,

I just took a good look at your website and your philosophy -- you are bringing wine to the nth degree! Your way of reviewing is sooooo 21st century! Stay real!

Melissa Alexander

Dear Wine X,

Just found out about Wine X yesterday. Okay, so us Boomers are a little (a lot?) slow compared to you slick Gen X-ers, but at least I did find you. There should be some points for that. And I found you because a certain Darryl Roberts from your publication is coming (we hope) to our event, the New Orleans Wine and Food Experience, in July. When we received the inquiry about Messr. Robert (around here he is a Ro-Bear), I did not know Wine X from Wine Y. But I do now. I subscribed. I get the e-mail blast. Bought the book. At the moment, I'm a sucker for your schtick. I've really enjoyed finding you. And I'm most anxious to meet The Man. Why don't a bunch of you (okay, so that was a rotten pun) come to the New Orleans Wine Event. Your audience is here. We go on for five days eating and drinking and seminar-ing, and then we have a wrap-up party. It's New Orleans, what do you expect? Again, thanks for being there and keep up the wonderful work.

Tim McNally

Dear Wine X,

I just wanted to let you know you've completely made my day with your new 1000.00-point rating scale. I've been reading your mag for a few years and I want to thank you for finally coming out with a wine publication for people like me (I'm 26, korean/italian, blonde, self-proclaimed wine geek on a wine geek budget). It's refreshing reading during my lunch hour. Cheers!

Jeanie Inglis-Chowanietz
Director of PR & Marketing
Cayuse Vineyards

Hi folks at Wine X,

I loooove your new 1,000.00 point wine rating system. Finally, we mere mortals can begin to understand what makes a 978.64 wine so far inferior to a 992.36 wine! I've been waiting so long for a point system specific enough to take into account everything from Vandelay to labor unions. You've opened my eyes to a new way of tasting wine...

Cheers for a great joke!

Kim Leeder

Dear Wine X:

This is a response to Darryl Roberts' opinion article on the Baby Boomers. As a baby boomer, I have been perusing your mag on the net. I like some of the things I see and others I have seen in other publications. I make no judgement on your attempt or method to reach a certain group. I'm glad to see that someone is making an attempt to educate the Bud Light crowd.

However, Darryl Roberts piece was an opinion, and like many opinions, biased, filled with unfounded stereotypes and is trivial. It was exactly what he was accusing the BBs of doing. Firstly, what Darryl does not see is the passion of many BBs. Whether you read Parker, the Spectator or Tanzer or listen to BBs at tastings, the passion is there. What words they use is unimportant. If they are comfortable with certain words, so be it. The most important thing is the enjoyment of wine.

Secondly, I and others of my generation have been using actresses or famous people to describe wines. The only differences are who and what we use to describe the wines. I may have used Sophia Loren instead of Anna Nicole Smith. But the principle is the same. As a matter of fact, some of my colleagues and wine lovers of your generation have suggested I write a book, "The Politically Incorrect Guide to Wines." The main reason for this, I use unorthodox methods to describe wines. Using vocabulary similar to your reviews helps some people understand the wine, not all. I've been doing that for 15 years. I get it, other BBs get it. Some just don't appreciate it. So what?

Thirdly, one does not have to pass judgement or criticize others to support one's point of view. There's enough room for all opinions in life and wine. And it is here that I spank Darryl. It's too easy to criticize. It involves very little wine knowledge or intellect. If some BBs are tough on your mag, so what. Keep growing, do what you love and drink wine. Leave the sour grapes to someone else.

A Sante,
George Karpyn

Darryl's Response: George, I can't ignore he fact that some BBs don't get or are tough on my mag. Because these BBs happen to be in charge of marketing wine today. And every time a BB brand manager or marketing director passes-up my mag for advertising because they "don't get it," I lose out. And my mag loses out. I can only grow this magazine if we're supported by BBs' advertising money. It wasn't happening when I wrote the Parker Syndrome piece, and it still ain't happening now. And if these "passionate" BBs you talk about want something to be passionate about 10 years from now, they better start thinking about who they've been ignoring these past 18 years. 'Cause as one Gen Xer said, "You can't continually ignore someone and expect them to turn around one day and support you."

Dear Wine X,

My name is Joel Goodwillie and my wife and I are the owners of Wind River Cellars in Washington state. Though we have both been in the wine business for going on ten years, we are still probably the youngest winery owners in the Northwest.

Much of our success has been do to our focus on the younger market, particularly the people who enjoy kayaking, windsurfing, hiking, mountain bike riding, kite boarding and white water rafting. All these activities are available here in the gorge. Last year we were one of the sponsors of the Subaru Gorge Games which features all of these mentioned activities. We also hooked up with one of the local white water rafting companies to offer tourists the opportunity to raft a world class river for four hours and then enjoy a meal and wine tasting here at the winery immediately after.

We've been reading Wine X since the first issue when one of those Willamette Valley people called it "wine porno." We feel that your publication is exactly what we're all about. Come out, visit, and if you don't agree I'll wear a T-shirt through Dundee that says, "I kiss Robert Parker's ass, too."

Keep pumpin' it out.

Joel Goodwillie
Owner/Winemaker/Janitor
Wind River Cellars

Wine X,

I agree that the healthy future for increased wine consumption is being ignored by most domestic table wine producers. Vintners in the alleged pinot capital of the Americas (Oregon, rhymes with bore-a-gun) are doing nothing to schmooze the micro-beer swigging chuppies (children of yuppies) in this state. Perhaps they're too busy contemplating if they can really jack-up the price on the 2000 vintage. I pimp wine retail and I'm very aware of 'customer base, demographics, age of purchaser, which sex buys more wine, blue hair or flax seed brunette etc.'. My point is this: the winery PR machines (in Oregon it's more like Match Box toys) in this country should be severely spanking (or rubbing, like Aladdin's lamp) their collective MBA/business/marketing degree (or whatever) to come up with ways to target the 'New age beverage and micro-beer consumers'. Wine X is doing its share. How 'bout you?

(Memo to PR: if you don't know how, then try watching some beer commercials or look at some glossy beer/spirits ads).

Jack Collins
Lambs Market Place Thriftway Portland OR

Wine X,

Ummmmm, hello, are you a dream come true? Get out of my brain, I can't believe there is a publication like yours, and I've not seen it yet! But then again, I do live in San Diego, the land that culture skips. But fortunately, I got myself out and went for a wine tasting trip extravaganza through France, Italy and Spain. After lusciousness like that the only thing I can do now is move to Sonoma and continue this passion. I can't believe you even have a wine horoscope, and I thought I was so creative thinking of that... damn damn damn. Right, so thrilled to know you are in existence, and will be reading you in the paper version in a northern Cali residence.

Take care and remember:
Don't wear red and purple together.
Jen Robie

Wine X,

I've just discovered your magazine. After several years of enduring the monotony of the Spectator, Enthusiast and the Advocate, it's really refreshing to find a publication that has the interests of younger wine consumers in mind. I currently live and work in Philadelphia. I recently moved here after a brief stint in Napa Valley working for Domaine Chandon. I must say that the entire experience of Napa and its "targeted audience" was truly a turn off.

I organize and lead tasting groups here for friends and people that are interested in wine at my workplace. I find that most people who consider themselves Gen X have an interest in wine and a willingness to listen and learn. Most are fairly unknowledgeable about the subject mostly due to the intimidation factor and snob appeal that surrounds wine. I cannot emphasize enough my belief that if more people of our age (and incomes) saw wine as a beverage that enhances meals and life, in general, wine would become more apart of their lifestyle.

I feel that the message that your publication is trying to send is right on the mark. It's not until consumers our age begin buying wines in sufficient quantities that the retailers, wholesalers and lawmakers will listen.

Chad Thompson

Wine X,

I'm the beer manager at the Wine Warehouse in Charlottesville, Virginia. I write a monthly email newsletter for our store and have written several wine and beer columns for local internet news pages focused on the local scene. I mention these things because I don't want you to think this email is coming from a random, novice source. While I'm an industry professional, I'm also in your target demographic -- late 20s, educated, very much a fan of music. I've read several recent issues of your magazine and have also read X Rated Wines, and I'm excited to see the approach you give to wine. You're taking the dour, cold image that wine has clung to so tightly for so many centuries and giving it a good shake, trying to bring it to a new, younger audience. I think that it's important to bring as much new blood into the wine world, to help it move forward.

My issue with your magazine is this: I think you gloss over educating the readers in favor of maintaining the cool, laid back image, which I think will ultimately hurt you in the long run. When customers come into our store, we're an information resource about our wines: who the grower is, where the wine is from, interesting history whenever possible. We visit wineries throughout the world, walk through the vineyards, learn the soils and vines. We try to make the wines more than just a product, but more of what the winemakers want them to be -- an artistic expression of their land. I've not seen very much of that kind of writing done for your magazine, and I think that is a under-sight on your part. We have many younger people come to our store looking to learn more than just the very basics of wine. They want the wine to mean something, and when we educate them about a wine and they buy one that's meaningful for a special occasion, they always come back to tell us how much our information made the meal even more special. I think you're missing out by not providing your readers with more depth. There are thousands of fantastic wines out there, away from the mainstream. Admittedly, there are many other publications beating the bushes, like the Wine Spectator (Wine Speculator, I should say), or the independent Parker and Tanzer guides. But they all have the same old approach. If you were to start going beyond the mainstream wines and start beating the bushes yourselves, presenting the small artisan vintners in your own fresh style, you could have a stronger more hard hitting reputation. Perhaps this is something that has started to change in recent issues; the last one I read was Volume 4.3. And I don't mean for this to be adversarial. I think many wine magazines are overinflated and self-important, and I do like the approach you are bringing to the wine world. But you do your readers a disservice by not giving them more education about the wines and beers they drink. II know it can be combined with your style. In fact, it deserves to.

Matthew Brown

Wine X,

I am so impressed with your mag that once and for all I'm going to subscribe and stop the insanity of reading what's available on the 'net'. Being of 43 years I like the focus of your magazine and believe in it in every sense of the word! Wine snobbery's like bad fashion at the White House -- Levis just won't do at the Official State Dinner.

Paul B. Lopez

Wine X,

Okay, here's where I see things going:

A customer walks in and asks for a special wine, one made only from every other grape from the odd-numbered clusters on the east side of the third vine from the end of the fourth row in the southern half of the Tucker Wingnut Vineyard (no, not the one in Napa). Oh, yeah, make sure that its the '97 second release because the first release was premature.

And, by God, I'll sell it with a smile on my face!

Perfection is just a sip away,

Dean
The Wine Shack
Cannon Beach, OR

20+ years in Food and Beverage Service -- and almost as many in computing -- why the hell am I just now finding your "rag." I am definately placing you in my top 5 fave reads of all time!

David

Wine X:

I've had a subscribtion with your magazine and I thoroughly enjoy it. I'm the manager of one of North Florida's premier wine restaurants. A number of my clientel are young adults, and it's a great way to offer them wine descriptions and a palate that breaks the rigid and sometimes vague traditional views about wine. For all this thank you.

Christopher J. Aiello
Manager
Cafe Cabernet

Wine X:

I think I must be twice the age of your target reader but I subscribe and love it. Thanks for the fun. It's nice to see both ends of the spectrum. Your wine picks are great and I enjoy the music and humor.

Patrick