The biggest challenge facing wineries today is how to lure the latest generation of drinkers - suckled on spirit coolers and suds - into the world of wine.

In the U.S., producers have sponsored huge come-as-you-are parties in major cities, where Generation X, Y and Zed come out in droves to see what wine goes best with potato chips, hot dogs and salsa.

The magazine Wine X thrives in San Francisco, catering to spirited younger readers - their latest Wine of the Week feature reads: "Firestone 2002 Riesling $8. I'm your Venus. I'm your fire. What's your desire? Rated XX."

Taking wine too seriously is a decided no-no when siren calling the hip (or hip-hop) set.

It's not just a problem in the New World. French producers are down in their cups over their emerging youth gorging on fast food and guzzling soft drinks and beer rather than growing up steeped naturally in wine culture at their parents' dining room tables.

What really frightens global producers is the waning of the Baby Boomers, who are drinking less as they age after two decades of conspicuous consumption. Who will replace them?