To unite an industry that has a reputation for snobbery with a generation branded by its raffishness, Roberts, 35, launched the bimonthly Wine X magazine in July 1997.

Feature articles rate wines in generation- appropriate lingo -- "exceptionally cool" or "gets it done" -- and opine about how conventional wine journalism snubs female consumers. The regular column Sex, Wine & Rock 'n' Roll matches wine and music; Wine Bitch airs readers' views; and the Surreal Gourmet offers advice on entertaining with food and wine. The text is designed around eye-grabbing graphics in the style of Wired and other renowned Gen-X periodicals.

"Most wine magazines write about what wines taste like, but lists of fruits and vegetables are boring," editor-publisher Roberts says. "I ask people what a wine reminds them of -- movies, people, sunshine on a spring morning.

"If you buy into the mystique and elitism of the wine industry, you probably won't like Wine X," he says. "We're trying to bring wine down from that pedestal."

Roberts, a former television producer, invested his six-figure savings to bring the magazine's first issue to the newsstand. Currently, more than 13,500 readers pay for the magazine; another 15,000 or so receive it at promotional events. The magazine is sold in book store chains such as Barnes & Noble and Borders Books. Surveys indicate that the pass-along rate is five or six, he says. Roberts expects his venture to become profitable in a couple of years.

The magazine isn't popular with everyone. It has been scorned or attacked as "egregious," "shocking," "overboard" and "unconscionable" by some wine trade pros -- responses that couldn't please Roberts more. "The support from my generation is amazing," he says. "They say, 'Finally -- a wine magazine that's geared for me.'"

Wine X Magazine, 4184 Sonoma Mountain Road Santa Rosa, CA 95404. (866) 545-0992 or ( 707) 545-0992; e-mail , or on the world Wide Web at http://www.winexmagazine.com.