Baby Boomers, like Gen Xers, tend to be stereotyped. Not because the majority fit any specific label or definition, but rather because a few very vocal and very visible individuals, who epitomize the stereotype, exploit the qualities and drag the rest of the demographic down with them. For example, just as most Boomers aren't materialistic and greedy, the majority of Xers aren't grungy, lazy slackers. Stereotypes are unfortunate because it seems that a few bad apples can spoil the whole bunch.

As I stated in my letter from the publisher, with this issue Wine X is officially one year old. Over this past year we've received a lot of support, mostly from consumers (of all ages) who are grateful for a wine magazine that doesn't promote an elitist and pretentious "Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous" attitude. We've also received a lot of criticism, mostly, however, from Baby Boomer wine writers and/or consumers. My theory is that they're afraid we'll become successful. And that our message that wine should be fun and accessible to everyone, not just the privileged few, will deflate their lofty "wine guru" status. It's the "self-empowering to intimidate" theory. But we all know that these wine "experts" have nothing to worry about. There'll always be those who need someone to tell them how to think on their own.

But it's these few very visible and vocal Baby Boomers, who can't or who don't relate to our magazine's graphics or young attitude, that ruin it for the rest of their peers. Because these Boomers don't "get it," they simply write it off as awful. And instead of using their intelligence or common sense to figure out that it's not written or designed for them, they take the attitude that if they don't like it, no one else will. Which is, of course, stupid, ignorant and makes no sense at all... unless you're in the wine business. Then it follows creed. It's a symptom I call "The Robert Parker Syndrome" -- people related to the wine industry (or think themselves wine experts) want to dictate what everyone else should think and drink. They're the first ones to tell you that wine is a subjective experience and the first ones to tell you what to buy because they liked it. It's unfortunate, but it's true.

Which brings me to our reviews, or "X-Rated Wines." Some Baby Boomers have made references to our review style as being childish, immature and, this one's my personal favorite, a Beavis & Butthead approach. Seems anything written about wine that doesn't resemble "War and Peace" is a Beavis & Butthead approach. You'd think these supposed educated Boomers could come up with something a little more clever than Beavis & Butthead. Oh, that's right, the creators of Beavis & Butthead are Boomers. Sorry. Anyway...

You'd think wine-knowledgeable Boomers would take the reviews simply for what they are -- fun, entertaining and a representation of presumed quality. Nope. They won't do it. Can't do it. Not acceptable. Doesn't wash with the wine-geek crowd. Gotta use fruits and vegetables. Gotta have those apples, that spice, that $4 word "unctuous" and some reference to a European style. Apparently it's written in stone somewhere. I've never seen it, but it's rumored to be somewhere in New York or Massachusetts.

I find their disposition rather humorous, actually, because the critics of our reviews -- geeks imbedded in the rich tradition and properness of wine writing and the very people who should know wine writing history -- are the ones who know the least. (Gee, what a surprise!) I don't mean to burst any bubbles out there, but wine writing didn't just pop onto the scene here in the states with the wine boom of the '70s and '80s. It's safe to say that writing about wine has probably existed since wine itself (the theory being there's always a critic). The British were the first to elevate wine writing into an art form, if you will, during the 1500s. After all, they were the largest consumers of wine outside wine-producing countries. The Brits basically dominated wine writing until the late 1970s and early 1980s, when California producers decided to hand over the power (and their fate) to a couple of American writers/publishers.

Up until this transition of power, though, British wine writings and writers, particularly from the 1950s and '60s, seldom scored wines on point scales or related them to fruits and vegetables. Wines were written about and compared to life and pleasures surrounding the occasion of drinking wine. Only since the invention of American wine magazines and ratings periodicals has wine been transformed from being one of life's pleasures to being a numerical point. In fact, if you talk to many Brits about American wine magazines (and American consumers in general) you'll find the Brits call us number crunchers. Makes me damn proud to be American.

Also, in my experience of teaching wine classes, conducting seminars, working in tasting rooms and just hangin' with friends, I've found that most people don't taste the fruits and vegetables that wine writers talk about. Whether I'm teaching a basics class on different varietals, or leading a vertical tasting of Matanzas Creek merlot, the majority of people attending these seminars admit they don't "get" these flavors. They just taste "wine." Which for them is something that they either like, don't like or are indifferent to. What they do relate to, however, is how the wine makes them feel. Something happens to them physically and psychologically. They flush. Their body tenses/relaxes. They smile, they gag. But the last thing they do is think of a number or a fruit. If you don't believe me, next time you're out with friends, watch what happens when someone tastes a really good or really bad wine. Watch the facial expressions and body movements.

So at Wine X we take the rich history of wine writing and try to update it for the '90s. We talk about wines as they relate to life, our peers and our surroundings -- music, fashion, movies, and textures and images the majority of people identify with (not how they compare to a grocery list and calculator). But, of course, this won't wash with the wine geeks out there, so let's dissect an "X-Rated Wine" and see what we come up with.

In our special tasting of New World wines (Vol. 2.5), we described the 1996 Rosemount Estate Chardonnay Reserve Hunter Valley as: Picture Brad Pitt in boxer shorts. We also gave it XX, which, of course, is the most important aspect of the review. However...

This review, on the exterior, seems simple and fun. But, because Xers are intelligent and capable of dissecting complex things, let's look deeper. "Brad Pitt." Sexy guy. Attractive. Well-built. Rich. Popular. Seems balanced. "In boxer shorts." Bold. Forward. Revealing, but not too fleshy. Leaves a lasting impression. So now, let's string all these together. "A sexy wine, rich, bold, attractive, well-balanced and -built, revealing forward fruit flavors with just enough flesh to carry it through the long lingering finish." Sure we could've written the review this way, but why use 27 words when we can use eight? And why write something boring when you can have a little fun with it and still convey the message?

Think about it. Intelligently. (And keep those Beavis & Butt-Head comments coming!)